Every January, the world’s longest mammal migration ends in a set of Baja lagoons, and the oldest and biggest nursery of them all — Laguna Ojo de Liebre, Scammon’s Lagoon — sits twenty minutes from Guerrero Negro. For snowbirds running the peninsula, this is the season’s non-negotiable stop: pangas idling among mothers and calves, whales close enough to touch (and often insisting on it), in the place where the species came back from the edge of extinction.
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